Savile Row has recently really been an issue. Thomas Mahon blogs about her life as a tailor and soon will open a new page exclusively dedicated to Savile Row Bespoke, Savilerowbespoke.com.
Savile Row’s tailors have built such a strong brand that fashion houses now jostle to get open a store on the street. Unfortunately, this has also led to higher local costs, which makes it increasingly difficult for tailors to cope. The Row is said to have become a victim of its own success. But first, perhaps we should start by sorting out what Savile Row really is? The simple answer is that it is a street that runs parallel to Regent Street in London. It is a bit more nuanced answer is that it is a pillar of classic menswear. For over 200 years, tailors housed along this street and their work has significantly shaped the way today’s costumes actually looks like. Way’s history goes even further back: Lord Burlington started in the late 1600s a huge construction project in London where all the streets he built were named after a family member. Lords Burlington wife Lady Dorethy Savile had to give the name to Savile Street, which since the 1810’s Savile Row. The street was inhabited mainly by high ranking in the military. The first tailor traced back to 1785, but the oldest still remaining is Henry Poole & Co., which started in 1806 and opened his first shop on Savile Row in 1846. Best known Poole to 1860 sewed it became the world’s first tuxedo blazer to the then Prince of Wales.
The new men’s fashion
in the late 1800s was the classic men’s fashion during the sharp change. Much of this development was influenced by George Bryan Brummel, better known as Beau. Beau stood near King George IV and was a known face among the British aristocracy. He stood for a simple fashion without a lot of decorations and chose the darker colors in front of screaming. The knee-length pants would be replaced with a pair that reached down to his shoes. Beau is also said to be the ancestor of Dandy-Semitism. The new fashion spread quickly and Henry Poole along with several other talented tailor made London and Savile Row for men’s fashion absolute center in the mid-1800s.
In the early 1900s, what is now the gentleman’s uniform, suit, taking shape. Gone was the tail-coat with pants and jacket in odd materials. Pants, jacket and vest would be made of the same fabric and the silhouette became sportier. Between the both World War I, Savile Row is the obvious place for the world’s well-dressed gentlemen. After World War II, Savile Row, however, allow for several Italian tailor. Movie stars like Gary Cooper and Clark Gable betrayal The Row and chose instead to sew their costumes in mainly Italian Brioni.
Savile Row met a renaissance during the Roaring ’60s and’ 70s.Behind this success was Tommy Nutter who managed to attract a whole new group of customers to Savile Row. Nutter sewed clothes are among other Beatles, Mick and Bianca Jagger, Michael Caine and Elton John.
The new Savile Row
Several live in the material world to Savile Row would be a place where time has stood for over 200 years. Our site wrote earlier about when Giorgio Armani attacked Savile Row and claimed Savile Row was so old that it should be in black / white. It requires no great knowledge to realize that the eternally tanned Italian got it all wrong.
Savile Row is in constant evolution and has also served as a springboard for several well-known designers today. Perhaps the most famous is Alexander McQueen. He started his career at Anderson & Sheppard, where it is said that he wrote the messages in the inner lining of Prince Charles costumes. He also had time for a period of Gieves & Hawkes before went on to Givenchyand later started a brand of its own. McQueen’s love of Savile Row and tailoring is evident when he chose to take up a collection with H Huntsman & Sons which since 1849 is housed on Savile Row. Even Stella McCartney started his career at Savile Row and Vivianne Westwood has openly said that she clearly inspired by Savile Row’s tailoring.
Today houses the prestigious tailors along with new and younger talent along Savile Row. It is no longer exclusively about bespoke but several tailors firms has also launched clothing lines. The question, however, has been tailors craft will live on as today with the help of a computer can obtain a person’s exact measurements.
For almost a year ago, protesting over 150 tailors to the fashion houses take over the street by laying out the measuring tape and scissors along the street. It can be viewed only as a parody of an obsolete business, but Savile Row arouses emotions. Savile Row’s tailors wants to preserve its historic heritage and refuses to give way to larger and richer fashion. Mark Henderson, chairman of “the Savile Row bespoke trade association ‘, explains in an article in The Telegraph that Savile Row is an important part in England’s history, well worth preserving:
– As champagne and fine wine are to France, Savile Row ice to English heritage and craftsmanship.